Wednesday, August 26, 2020

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

[Out of cell/wifi range for most of Tuesday. Stopping for breakfast at Burr Trail Outpost - a great spot with espresso, breakfast burritos and solid wifi.]

About an hour out of Bryce, we entered Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument - a 1 million acre (used to be 1.9 million; somebody decided that was too much) natural area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. It's a vast, rugged area that was apparently one of the last places to be mapped in the contiguous United States. 'Staircase' refers to the descending geological layers that are visible in different sections of the park.

The scenery is spectacular - and constantly changing as you drive: sheer canyon walls, vast open spaces, Bryce-like rock formations, green valleys, rivers, and winding highways. Tough to describe.

With no reservation for the night, we stopped at a visitor center in the town of Escalante to see what our options might be. The center was closed, but we identified several potential camping spots. Our top choice was a first-come-first serve campground with only 12 sites, near the trailhead to a highly rated hike to a waterfall. We grabbed lunch at a great outdoor mexican restaurant, then hit the road. At about 1:30 we pulled into Calf Creek Campground where we were very pleasantly surprised to find an un-claimed campsite! It was meant to be.

Just outside the town of Escalante

One of many scenic overlooks

Entrance to the campground. There's a creek running beneath those trees.

We paid for our site, then jumped back in the van to head to the tiny town of Boulder, Utah to replenish our ice supply. Headed back to camp, changed into hiking gear, and headed for the Lower Calf Creek Falls trailhead, about 50 yards from our campsite. It's a 2.8mi (each way) hike through the creek canyon to the falls.

Trail was sandy - at times like walking on a beach

One of many great views along the trail

It had been sunny and hot (low 90's), but some rain clouds started rolling in about halfway up the trail. Given the recent electrical storms we've witnessed, we're both conscientious about getting stuck in a thunderstorm. We decided to press on and enjoyed a refreshing drizzle just as we got to the falls.

Wildflowers and rainclouds

Made it!

Quick swim under the falls

The rain stopped so we stayed for half an hour, then packed up and headed out as it started to drizzle again. The wind started blowing and it felt like it was really going to pour, but 10 minutes later the rain stopped and the sun started to come out.


Clouds clearing

Blue skies

Got back to campsite around 6. Cocktail while we setup camp, then dinner of chicken-apple sausages. After cleaning up, and packing up as much as possible for an early departure, we sat out and watched the night sky. Karri got some more great stargazing photos. 

Moon rising over the van


Sagittarius (thanks star-gazing app) 

This was the most 'primitive' campsite we've stayed in, but we both liked it the best - so far. The trees/shrubs made for great privacy, we were 20 feet from the creek and a small swimming hole, and had a great view of the nearby cliffs. The creek provided a perfect soundtrack for a great night of sleep (at least for me - Karri didn't sleep as well).

Packed up quickly this morning - didn't even make coffee - and were on the road at 8:20.

Almost ready to go

Heading to Fruita Campground in Capitol Reef NP today. Looks like just over an hour-long drive. Karri's been scouting hikes/sights while I write this. :)


Song spot: This was the first hike with no particular song in mind (at least not that I remember)

Hiking: ~5.5mi

Biking: 0

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