An Amazing Day in Bryce Canyon

Decided to 'sleep-in' til 6:30. Showered and packed up before grabbing a Covid-modified buffet breakfast (you walk the line and a server fills your plate) at the hotel. Nothing fancy, but tasty and filling.

Loaded the car and headed to Sunset Point to start our hike - the 'Figure 8' that combines portions of 3 different trails. Gorgeous blue skies, about 65 degrees. On the trail at 8:15 with few cars in the parking lot and few hikers on the trail. 

Hitting the trail at Sunset Point

We started with a steep, switch-backed descent on Wall Street and were immediately rewarded with close-up views of the pink rock formations, known as hoodoos. We both had the feeling we were entering sacred ground - even feeling a little emotional at times (or could have just been too much coffee at breakfast :) ). 

Switch backs dropping us into the Canyon

Looking up from the Canyon floor on Wall Street

After a mile of mostly downhill, we got to Peek-a-Boo trail - a hilly, challenging 3-mile loop with spectacular views of the hoodoos. You can't help but make out different shapes - faces, animals, chess pieces, cathedrals, etc. 

We read about a local legend that the Legend People lived here long before the natives. They were ruled by Coyote - a benevolent god with a trickster sense of humor. The Legend People were selfish and careless, and Coyote eventually grew irritated with them. He invited them all to a feast, then cast a spell that froze them all in place. Hiking the canyon, you can almost imagine ancient people encased in the rockery. 

We also read that geologists say the hoodoos are formed from frost wedges (Bryce gets 200+ days of frost each year) that create small cracks that expand through continued erosion - eventually leaving tall, side-by-side stacks. I think the legend is more fun. 

A lone tree

Hoodoos against a gorgeous blue sky

Several natural portals along the way

After completing the loop, we walked a short connector trail to the Queens Garden trail, which was also beautiful, though not as impressive as Peek-a-Boo. Queens finishes with a steep climb back up to the top of the Canyon at Sunrise Point. 

Along Queens Garden trail

Climbing out of the canyon; Color contrasts were amazing

Sights like this everywhere

Then we walked half a mile along the Canyon Rim Trail back to Sunset Point. The total hike was shorter than we had expected, about 7.5mi.

View from Sunrise Point overlooking a portion of the trail we hiked

We got to the car at 11:45, tired/hot/sweaty/dusty from the trail. A shower sounded really good (we honestly weren't planning to shower daily!) so we decided to hustle back and try our luck at the hotel (checkout was at 11am). They hadn't cleaned our room yet and Karri was able to sweet-talk the front desk attendant into giving us a new key! 20 minutes later we were refreshed and ready to head to our campsite in the park at Sunset Campground. 

Over leftover pizza and cold beers, we discussed a modification to our plan. We intended to hike the 8mi Fairyland Trail Tuesday, camp here again, then get an early start Wednesday to drive through Escalante National Monument, on the way to Capitol Reef NP. We've heard and read great things about Escalante and are thinking more time there might be nice. The Fairyland Trail sounds great, but looks like it will be similar to today's hike. 

After some R&R in camp, we biked back to the visitor center, stopped for a cold beverage at Bryce Canyon Lodge, then on to the viewpoint and trailhead at Fairyland, just to see what we might be missing. 

Great bike trail along the first 5 miles of the park

Got back to camp around 6:15 for a cocktail. Steaks for dinner. Quickly cleaned up, then biked to Sunset Point for... sunset. The setting sun (behind us) cast beautiful light on the hoodoos in the distance. 

Tough not to smile :)

Back to camp at dusk. Karri set up the tripod and got some amazing nighttime sky photos. 

Exhausted after an amazing day, we climbed into bed around 10. Temps dropped into the mid 40's overnight. Great sleeping!

Up, breakfast, packed and now off to Escalante!

Song spot: Johnny Cash covering 'Desperado' while descending into the Canyon. Tom Petty 'Wreck Me' got me through the tough hiking stretches. 

Hiking: ~7.5mi

Biking: ~9mi

Zion to Bryce

Today was a moving day, as we packed up camp and drove from Zion NP to Bryce Canyon NP. We had a leisurely morning in camp (we're both a little sore/achey after hiking the Narrows), then biked to town to grab a couple souvenirs. On the way back, we decided to continue up the Pa'rus trail another half mile to enjoy the amazing views one last time.

Saying goodbye to Zion

Packing up was fairly quick. After 6 days of camping, we are starting to get better organized and find a 'place' for everything. (I'm married to a process consultant - we were well organized to start, but there's always room for continuous improvement!). 

Morning sun hitting the peaks as we get ready to pack up

We pulled out of the campground shortly after 10 and headed out the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway to the East park entrance, which gave us a chance to see a section of the park we hadn't explored. It's a gorgeous, winding road, with a couple narrow tunnels that were built in the 1930's. We stopped several times to snap photos and soak in the Zion sights.

West Rim from the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway

East Canyon with Z-MC Highway switchback

It's less than a 2-hour drive to Bryce from Zion... unless you stop to enjoy the scenery! We got to our hotel, near the entrance to Bryce, around 1:15, about a 3 hour trip. As planned, we are 'treating' ourselves to a hotel every 4-to-6 days to clean up and rest up. A night in a king-sized bed is sounding pretty good right now!

We've been filling drive time with a mix of music, podcasts and an audio book. We're currently listening to 'The Monkey Wrench Gang' by Edward Abbey - a hilarious story set in Southern Utah(!) - recommended by my buddy Mike. It really helped pass the time on those early 7+hr drive days.

We stopped at the Best Western Plus Bryce Canyon to check in, then hopped back in the van to head to the park visitor center before driving the length of the park to see some of the sights. 

Bryce is opposite from Zion in a couple ways. Zion has a road from south-to-north that runs along the bottom of the canyon, with views up steep canyon walls. Bryce has a road that runs from north-to-south on the rim of a vast canyon with views down to valleys and beautiful rock formations. 

Due to higher elevation (8,000-9,000ft), it's significantly more comfortable here compared to Zion - low-80's vs mid-100's. Going to be cool in the evenings, which sounds delightful to both of us. 

There are several pullouts and viewpoints along the main road that give breath-taking (especially if you don't like heights!) views of the canyon. 

Natural Bridge

Canyons and Ponderosa pines

A passing storm created some great lighting

Inspiration Point

Our plan for tomorrow is to do a longer hike starting at Sunset Point, descending into the canyons. As usual, we're hoping to get an early start to beat the crowds, although initial indication is that Bryce has much lighter traffic than Zion. 

Sunset Point (arrow) where we plan to start our hike tomorrow

We had planned to grab dinner at the resort across the street from our hotel, but after a cocktail and some smoked salmon in our hotel room, takeout pizza sounded pretty good (it was!).

Shower, then early to bed for a 6am-ish alarm.

Song spot: With no strenuous activities and lot's of car time, nothing stuck around for long today

Hiking: <1mi

Biking: ~2mi (slackers! but if felt good to rest after the Narrows)

The Narrows

[Showered and enjoying beers while we wait for an early dinner at the restaurant next to the brew pub]

Up at 5:30am, biked (~1/2mi) to the Visitor Center to catch a shuttle at 6:20am. We asked an attendant where we could lock our bikes and he encouraged us to use the racks on the shuttle bus and take them with us, then bike back down after our hike. Well... why not?!

Bus dropped us at Temple of Sinawava at 7:00 and we were on the trail at 7:10. Traffic on the trail was light and we were able to separate from other groups, which made for great photo opportunities. We didn't realize what a treat this was until the trip down.

The first mile of the hike is on a paved trail. The rest is spent mostly walking in the shallow Virgin River - or along rocks on either side as the width of the canyon permits. We had rented special water/hiking boots and neoprene socks. We weren't sure if they were necessary, but once we hit the river we knew we had made the right decision. And our hiking poles were essential.

First portion of the trail

Last 'dry' spot before entering the river

We had never hiked in running water before - other than occasionally crossing a stream. It was at the same time exhilarating and nerve-racking. Some of the rocks were very slick. At times it was hard to see the bottom. And in narrow sections, the water was running fast.

You can hike up to an additional 4 miles in the river without a permit. We'd read that the last 2 miles were particularly beautiful - and less crowded - so, of course our plan was to hike the whole thing. 

Early morning sun starting to hit the canyon

At times it got a a little deeper :)

The water was cold, but refreshing - especially after 3 days of 105+ weather. As anticipated, it got prettier the further we went up-river.

Waterfalls

Massive overhang at a bend in the river

A narrow bend

My fearless companion

The deepest spot was at a narrow gap were a large rock blocked much of the path. We had to remove our packs and I shuttled them overhead while the water came up almost to my armpits. Karri was able to climb over some rocks along the edge and only(!) go in to her waist. 

We hiked about 5 miles total to the end of a stretch known as Wall Street - would have needed a permit to go further. We stopped and enjoyed an early lunch before heading back down.

Lunch stop at the end of the line

Working our way back down - sun moving overhead; that's Karri with the red pack

Our fashionable - and very useful - rental boots!

Mid-day with gorgeous skies overhead

After about a mile hiking back down, we started to run into more people heading upstream. After 2 miles, it was starting to get crowded and you had to choose your route carefully to avoid crossing paths. After 3 miles, there was a mass of humanity. People were everywhere - and still coming up the canyon in droves. We frequently had to wait for the path to clear - or just blast down the middle of the river, which we did several times. 

We were exhausted by the end. Hiking in the water was tough and we were both tense from trying to avoid slippery rocks - and people. But it was so worth it. Certainly one of the most unusual hikes we've ever done, and one of the most scenic. Definitely a must do in Zion - as long as you can beat the crowds.

The bike ride down was tougher than yesterday. We were exhausted, it was hot from the early afternoon sun and the wind was blowing in our faces for long stretches. It was still beautiful, and a fun way to end a great adventure.

Stopped at camp to grab clean clothes. Biked to town to return the boots, take a shower (a nice luxury that the town has clean public showers) and head out to dinner at the pub. 

Planning on a relaxed morning before we pack up and head to Bryce Canyon NP. Might do a quick bike ride... or may just sit in camp and drink coffee!

Another awesome day. Zion is amazing. Highly recommend!

Song spot: Interesting day. Dylan kept a persistent grip in the morning, this time with 'The Times They Are A Changin' . An encounter on the river with an unhappy couple reminded me how lucky I am and brought John Prine's 'Inspite of Ourselves' :) to mind. The rest of the day was filled, apropriately, with Talking Heads 'Take Me To The River'.

Hiking: ~10mi (7+ of which was in/along the river)

Biking: 9+mi

Biking the Zion Scenic Drive

Rinse. Repeat. We're back at the brew pub patio, showered, enjoying a tasty Pilsner (hat-tip to Joel!), waiting for a load of laundry to finish drying.

Delicious fajita dinner in camp last night. Unfortunately, our enjoyment of it was interrupted by a swarm of bees who also, apparently, thought it was a pretty tasty (or at least aromatic) meal. 

Pre-bee fajita dinner

It was windy last night, which helped cool things down a bit. We each woke up a couple times wondering if our stuff was blowing away. Otherwise, slept well and were up around 6:45 to find everything where we left it. 

Our plan today was to bike the scenic drive back up to the Grotto and do a hike that a park ranger had suggested. We decided to 'ease' into the morning - no alarm, relaxed breakfast, no firm timeline. Oatmeal and coffee for breakfast. Biking out of camp at 8:10. It was a gorgeous morning, despite the gusty headwind blowing down the canyon.

Start of the ride

The first couple miles of the ride were on the Pa'rus trail. Then we switched to the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, which is only accessible to shuttle buses, tour operators (mostly in large vans), and Lodge residents (up to the lodge - no higher). We stopped at the Grotto and were both enjoying the ride so much that we decided to skip the hike and continue to the end of the road at Temple of Sinawava - about an 8 mile, slightly uphill, ride from our campsite. 

Due to the above restrictions, there was very little traffic on the road. And due to the (fairly) early hour, most of the ride was shaded by the high canyon walls on either side of us, making it a comfortable temperature to ride uphill. Plus we had occasional gusts of wind in our face.

The scenery was breathtaking. It was so nice to be able to stop whenever we wanted, snap a photo, or just soak in the beauty.

Views like this around every turn

West Canyon

Just kept getting better

Mom and fawn

Crazy rock formation in the foreground

The road ends at Temple of Sinawava, which is the launch point for the 2nd most popular attraction in the park - The Narrows. We're planning to do that hike in the morning (6am shuttle - hoping to beat the crowds). We decided to walk a bit of the beginning of the trail to 'get the lay of the land'. We got to the trailhead around 9:45am. There was a steady stream of people getting off shuttle buses to start the hike. We walked about 3/4 mile, then stopped for an early lunch along the Virgin River.

Beginning of The Narrows hike

Lunch stop

The ride down was a blast (downhill always is!). It was sunnier, but not too hot. We went a lot faster, but still made a few stops to enjoy the scenery. It's amazing how the views change throughout the day as the sun passes over the canyon. 

Stop at Big Bend

The peak right of center is Angel's Landing; the lighter color (upper right) in the distance is part of West Rim that we hiked yesterday

The trail we hiked up to Angel's Landing yesterday (near center of photo); if you really zoom in, you might be able to see hikers!

We were back at camp by noon and it was starting to heat up again. Relaxed in the shade and snacked on some smoked salmon (smoked right before we left!), before biking into Springdale to rent special water/hiking shoes and neoprene socks for the hike tomorrow - after the first mile, you walk in the (shallow) Virgin River. Then shower/laundry/pilsner(x2).

On the ride today, I spent a bunch of time thinking about my older brother, Bob (aka 'Rev'), who has invited me to join him on the 300+ mile GAP ride from Pittsburgh to DC at the end of September. Wish I'd done more training over the last couple months. They'll be doing 50+ miles/day. Badass.

Sloppy Joes for dinner tonight (fingers crossed no bees!). Early to bed for a 5am(!) alarm.

Hiking: ~1mi

Biking ~17mi

Song spot:  Blowin' in the Wind (Bob Dylan)

Song Spot

My college buddy Norm has a theory that you get a song stuck in your head for an extended period of time. You can have one - and only one - song in your 'song spot' at any point in time. The tune and/or lyrics play over-and-over until displaced by another song. 

I'm frequently reminded of this theory when hiking, running or biking. 

A good song in your 'song spot' can inspire you to power through a tough stretch or get your mind focused on memories of a different time, place, important person in your life, etc. 

A few years ago, I ran a couple half marathons. Every song I added to my race-day playlist was carefully selected to remind me of special people or great memories that would take my mind off the fact that I was struggling through a 13.1 mile run.

It works the same for hiking. Great scenery can help, but a good song in your 'song spot' can inspire you to hike or climb higher/faster/longer than you might while instead focusing on each-and-every step. A great song-spot song gets your adrenaline going and gives you extra energy. 

If a particular song enjoys an extended stay in my 'song spot' during our Southern Utah adventure, I'll try to mention it at the end of my post.

Angel's Landing and West Rim Trail

[Found a better signal. Writing this post from my laptop :) Also, I added a few photos to last night's post.]

Did I mention it's hot here? Guessing it was in the mid-80's in the shade when we ate dinner last night. Dropped to (maybe) the upper 60's overnight. Fortunately, we have a couple small fans that run off the auxiliary battery in the van. Despite the heat, we both slept pretty well.

Alarm went off at 5:55am MT. Oatmeal and coffee for breakfast as we packed up for the day. 

The only way you can get to the upper regions of the park is to take a shuttle or ride your bike (or walk). Due to Covid, the shuttle requires a $1 ticket/reservation for a 1-hour departure window (you can get off and back on as often as you want after initial departure). We had tickets for 7-8am and were on a bus at 7am. Several of the stops are closed (again, due to Covid). We got off at The Grotto, which is the launch point for hikes to Angels Landing - likely the most iconic hike in Zion. 

We were on the trail at 7:30 and hiked a fairly steep 2 miles to Scout's Lookout, at the base of Angel's Landing. The last stretch of Angel's Landing is a steep, narrow hike along the 'spine' of a ridge. There's a chain rail to hold onto, but to this height-fearing hiker, it looks terrifying (Scout's Landing is also known as 'Chicken-out Point'; there's a sign at the start of the hike that 10 people had died in falls since 2004). We knew going up that this section of the trail was closed (again, Covid). Karri was disappointed. I was relieved. :)

Fortunately, we had read that the trail continues up to the West Rim of the canyon and to some spectacular views down to Angel's Landing and other sections of the park. The trail was mostly empty and spectacular.

West Rim Trail

Early lunch stop in the shade

At the 4 mile (total) mark, we stopped for lunch, then decided to head back down before it got too hot. 

Angel's Landing from the Western Rim Trail. Zoom in (lower right) to see the switchbacks known as 'The Wiggles' that we hiked on the way up

Back at the Grotto, we decided to hike an additional half mile down to Zion Lodge, which looks like it would be a great spot to stay in non-pandemic times. It was open, but some of it's best features (e.g. a shaded patio restaurant) are closed. We hopped a shuttle and were back at the base before 1pm. Checked in at the visitor center to plan tomorrow's adventure, then headed back to camp. 

Post-hike ice bath (did I mention it's hot??!)

We relaxed in the shade at the campsite, then biked into the nearby (.5mi) town of Springdale for a (much-needed-and-very-much-enjoyed) shower, beers at the local brewery on their mist-cooled patio, a stronger-data-signal-enabled-wifi-hotspot, and some blog(!) and photo updates.

Yep - we're the laptop geeks at the brew pub

It's 3:45pm. After another beer (it's quite comfy here!) we'll pick up some more ice to take back to the campsite. Happy hour, fajitas for dinner, maybe a short bike ride, then early to bed!

We don't have shuttle tickets for tomorrow. We're planning to bike up to a trailhead near one of the closed shuttle stops - hoping we'll have the trail to ourselves.

Finally, a couple new data points I'm hoping to add to daily posts...

Hiking: ~8.5mi

Biking ~1mi

Song spot: The Promised Land